Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has forever been a food lovers' paradise, with locals and travelers equally swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
In a recent announcement, UNESCO honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – placing it on a select roster of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this status, it joins a international community of cities cities across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "demonstrates its profound gastronomic legacy and dynamic gastronomic culture," as stated by a representative from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of 70 cities worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this time-honored city comes as hardly a shock to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, bustling, and eclectic city – the capital of India's most populous state – is at last in the global gaze for what has consistently characterized its heart: an profound passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a constant dialogue from morning until night in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and taken to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of gastronomic creativity, blending Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. The story goes that the mutton galouti was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only highlights seasonal produce but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on countless corners, there are little shops and stalls – little-known delights that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, served in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can make their way to a simple joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is scientific and involved. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but express concern that their children do not want to take up the skill.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy puts it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will encourage more people worldwide to learn these tales and visit the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
